Trailer Dometic

Trailer Dometic

Operating Your RV Heating System

Most motor homes and trailers are equipped with a forced air propane fired furnace, like the Suburban.  The propane provides fuel for the heating while a 12 volt motor driven fan pushes the warm air through several vents within the living area of the vehicle.  Additionally, many have a separate switched fan motor capable of circulating warm air to the basement that houses the water tank and plumbing.  This can be armed to run whenever heat is required to prevent freezing temperatures from causing any damage.  This type of primary heating is currently the most common found in the average RV today and works well.

The hydronic heating system is probably the best system and method available and provides an extremely comfortable environment within the coach.  It is standard on many, if not all, high end coaches and is also available as an option on many.  This is, however, an expensive upgrade that generally runs between 8 and 12 thousand dollars.

The furnace and the hydronic heating systems are considered the primary source in a motor home, but many also have one or more secondary sources.  The most popular are heat pumps, like those made by Dometic.  These optional units are located and supplied by the air conditioners.  When operated in the heat mode, warm air flows out of the AC unit or vents instead of the normal cold.   The heat pump(s) can operate efficiently down to an outside temperature of about 40 degrees or so.  Generally, if the heat pumps are running, say overnight, when the temperature fluctuates from 50 F. down to 35 F. and then in the morning back up to 45 F., the heat pumps will automatically shutdown and the furnace or hydronic unit will start up.  In the morning as the temperature rises back to within the heat pumps efficiency range, the heat pumps will again take over shutting down the primary heater.

Bernhart says heat pumps are a great option to have.  They can provide a comfortable warmth when sufficient AC power is available (generally 30 amp for one and a full 50 amp service for multiple units.).  This can reduce the consumption of propane or diesel and is a particularly thrifty way to heat your coach when the electric power is included in your lot fee. are another secondary source and are becoming a more popular option on higher end coaches.  These are available on coaches that have the majority of the living space tiled.  They have electrical heating elements beneath the tiles and are divided into three circuits providing a three zone control choice.  These can make the floor feel very cozy and can also help raising the interior temperature slightly.  The cost for this can run anywhere from around 4 to 10 thousand dollars.

Never turn off your heating unit by cutting off the power.  Always use the power switch.  That's because you could send a small surge of power through the system resulting in a possible blown fuse, or worse, excessive power to the heat pump motor.  I always put the heating unit high on my checklist of things to do when preparing for departure, to be sure I turn if off before cutting off the shore power.  Same goes for the air conditioner. You always want to turn off power only via the power switch and not by pulling your shore power chord, especially when it the air is running.  Remember, start up and shut down of major appliances are often accompanied by a small surge of power into the motor.

 

 

About the Author

Bruce Bernhart is an avid RV enthusiast who writes and blogs about various topics related to RV enjoyment, care and maintenance. Bernhart has 15 years experience performing his own RV repairs.  We do the research for you, and bring you best of the web on RV topics.

Check out these other RV websites by Bruce Bernhart:

Bruce Bernhart on the basics of RV batteries

Bruce Bernhart additional topics on RV batteries

Bruce Bernhart on Solar Power for your RV

 

My refrigerator in my travel trailer won't turn back on.?

I have a 2003 Prowler trailer with a Dometic refridge, Power is either 110 volt AC, or 12V DC, or propane. I turned it off to clean it, now it won't re-start. Is there a re-set button or something that I should push? Thanks for tthe help.

in order for your fridge to work you need to be connected to 110V Ac or 12V Dc

Roulotte Award Classic 27 1996 (trailer)