Electric Trailer

Electric Trailer

Which is the right camper trailer

So the time has come to buy a camper trailer. You’re off on that big trip and the idea of a quick setup and that extra space in your vehicle is so much more appealling than setting up those flimsy hike tents every night in the rain. You’ve had the “second-hand vs new” debate. You’re ready to start looking.

You would think the choice would be relatively easy; how many camper trailers could there be? Well, there are plenty. There are dozens of manufacturers and resellers out there, presenting a host of specifications, options and accessories, ranging from as little as $4000, to upwards of $40,000 for a hard floor camper. So before you hit the outlets and the camping shows, it will pay to have a few of the basics straight.

Firstly, what will you be doing with your camper? There are essentially two types of trailer out there – onroad and offroad. If you are touring largely on 2wd roads, a fairly standard onroad trailer may serve your purposes. Generaly similar to a standard 7×4 trailer, with the addition of a tent and a range of accessories from basics such a swingout tailgate and a jockey wheel to deluxe kitchens, jerry can holders, water tanks and electrics.

With the wear and tear suffered at the hands of corrugations and the combined rugged conditions found on forest tracks and outback roads, a standard or onroad camper will not last long. So if you plan to go bush camping, taking your trailer down serious 4wd tracks towed by your trusty offroad vehicle, then you will need an offroad trailer to match.

Again the options are vast, but we’re narrowing it down. Just as your 4wd vehicle is designed to take the punishment of harsh offroad conditions, so is a properly designed offroad camper trailer. The trailer will have, as a minimum, heavy duty construction and drawbar, including some form of frame or chassis, along with heavy duty offroad springs and axels, for example the popular 7 leaf eye to eye shackle springs. Electric or hydraulic brakes are almost a must for these trailers, giving more control in challenging conditions, and required in any case if the trailer is over a certain weight. There are also a variety of specialised offroad couplings, and often extended drawbars, both options allowing for greater maneuverability in offroad conditions. Of course tyres are also offroad, should include a spare, and where possible should be matched to the wheels and tyres on your primary towing vehicle.

As with onroad trailers, alternatives abound. A stone guard is a must, and not always standard equipment. Toolboxes on the drawbar, of various sizes and construction, or even secure and dustproof storage spaces built into the sides of the trailer. Jerry can holders are an important consideration, for carrying extra fuel or water. Kitchens and water storage under the trailer as well. From a simple fold out tailgate with a shelf for a gas stove, to a deluxe extendable swingout kitchen with pantry and plumbing to gas bottles and twin water tanks. From no electrics, to 12v lighting and water pump systems, battery chargers and inverters, and 240 volt connections.

Next is the tent. Make sure the tent is made from quality Australian made and treated canvas; there have been many lesser quality imported tents being sold on camper trailers in recent years – however most quality dealers are staying well away from them now. Most standard tents simply fold out from the top of the trailer, creating a decent sized room and leaving a platform for a double bed mattress. Tent sizes vary from 9ft to 15ft or even more, however in the case of a hard floor camper, where the top of the camper trailer folds over and down to become a platform on the ground, the tent size will be limited.

Another important consideration is the amount of airflow, in the form of numbers and sizes of windows and doors. In warm weather or just in direct sun, the inside of a canvas tent can become very warm very quickly. Insect screens on those windows, and zip-down canvas awnings, are critical. Check to see if the screen material is fine, midge-proof screening or simply fly-screen! Different models also offer different combinations of awnings, annexes and additional rooms. A good standard is an awning with an end wall, and options to add zip-on walls afterwards or as part of a package. Additional rooms may cater to a larger family, or simply more storage on those longer stays.

With all this in mind, only you can strike a balance between what you want in a trailer, and what you can afford to pay!! There are many good, soft-floor offroad options in the $9,000 – $15,000 price range; decide whats important to you and look carefully at whats on offer in different packages. Don’t get drawn into paying for what you don’t need. There are many “deluxe” options that offer far more than the average bush camper would have considered before setting out to buy a trailer.

Happy Hunting!
About the Author

Peter Drew is the author of
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I have put electric breaks on a trailer. I need to know how to wire the magnets up to the break system.?

I do know how to hook up the system from the truck to the trailer. But I do not know which wire on the axel breaks goes. There was no wire diagram.

The 2 wires wired to the brake backing plate (located inside of the wheel)are as follows; Blue, which is your brake activating wire & white (ground).

Cycle Bully Electric Trailer